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The Booze Cruise - A Thing of the Past?

by Andy 21. May 2011 22:17

1Many years ago back in the summer of 2005 I married my beautiful wife Anna. Our wedding breakfast was a sumptuous hog roast in a marquee in my parent’s garden in Kent . The weather glorious and there was wine and beer a plenty. By the time the Elvis impersonator came on our guests were in very merry spirits.

In those heady days we dinkies (double income no kids) and the pound was riding high in the international money exchanges. Given the strength of the pound I went with my dad and a friend to Sainsburys in Calais and purchased a 100 bottles each of Torres Vina Esmeralda and Penfolds Rawson’s Retreat Shiraz Cabernet, two very quaffable wines and the cost approximately £2.50 a bottle.

Since these days the pound has lost much of its value against the Euro and with the big supermarkets squeezing the margins of the producers to offer more competitive prices to their consumer, the booze cruise has seemingly become a thing of the past. Although every bottle of wine is taxed £2 tax in the UK this is can easily be eaten up by unfavourable exchange rates even more so with the expensive varieties; not to mention the expense of getting over to France with petrol so expensive. I dropped into Sainsbury Calais on a day trip to La Touquet a couple of years ago and other than a checkout girl I was there only person in there. Back in 2005 the aisles were bristling with people from the UK making bulk purchases. It came as no surprise when I heard Tesco, Oddbins and Sainsburys have since closed their Calais operations. Oddbins of course since having closed all their operations (but this is a different story!). Majestic are the only UK retailer left standing.

Having just returned to the UK from a village called Angles 20 or so miles north of La Rochelle I realise I was perhaps a little premature penning the obituary of the booze cruise. Browsing the wine aisle of the ‘Super U’ supermarket in La Tanche Sur Mer, I was quite taken aback by the good value of the wine on offer.

Other than a few varieties of Jacobs Creek and a few Blossom Hill presumably for unadventurous Brits abroad, the wines on offer were not the same as those on offer in the UK. Aside from these branded wines everything thing was exclusively French; the French seemingly unable to recognise the merits of any wine from outside their own borders.

A familiar wine I did spot was Les Armes Des Chablis at €5.50, so about £4.80 a bottle. A quick Google on the iPhone reveals a the same wine albeit a different vintage was selling at Tesco for £8.99 a bottle. Chablis always carries quite a high price tag and in my opinion does not always offer value for money. This however was a good clean crisp Chablis and under a five I wasn't going to argue. On the next visit I filled up my trolley.

Angles is very close to the Loire Valley and Nantes famous for the Muscadet grape. Figuring where better to find decent Muscadet since the prices ranged from as little as €2.75 to a giddy €3.50 I took the opportunity to put a few varieties into my trolley to find the best on offer. Muscadet has a reputation for lacking complexity, so I only selected Muscadet Sur Lie. The ‘Sur Lie’ bit meaning the wine was left in contact with the lees (dead yeast) to add body and complexity, a similar process also used in the production of Champagne . These were all good quaffing wines perfect for a hot day in France and or a UK wedding. The best on offer I would say was Domaine de la Jousseliere Sevre & Maine sur lie 2009 at €3.15.

I tried a few more expensive varieties. With memories of the impressive M&S Burgundy Mersault 2008 still in my mind I selected a bottle of Mersault 2009. This was not quite as impressive as the M&S offering but at €18.50 over £10 less expensive than the M&S Mesault.

In the UK I will drink far more red than white, but in the French sunshine around a private pool drinking white is far more conducive.  This said I we did purchase the odd reds to go with the steaks on the barbecue. A nice Mercurey I purchased roughly half the price of a similar UK version, so too a rather nice Gigondas from the Rhone region.

One thing I will give a word of warning on, UK supermarket wine buyers in my opinion are better than their French counterparts and a few duds were encountered alongside these bargains. If you're buying wine in bulk for a wedding then make sure you taste first.

                                   

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Marks and Spencer Spring Press Wine Tasting 2011

by Andy 21. March 2011 19:49

I've been invited to these events before but for various reasons this was the first one I had actually been able to attend. I was expecting a couple of dozen wines, a room full of journalists and a PR person singing the praises of the wines on offer with flowery prose. The reality was different, we were taken to a large room with 150 wines laid out on tables and told to help ourselves.

I had a look around at my fellow tasters and chatted to a few, most it seemed were wine advisers from M&S stores around the UK. They had come to experience first hand the wine they will soon be recommending to their customers. A few journalistic types did turn up a bit later on, unsurprisingly they all seemed to know each other.

Tasting and making notes on all 150 wines was going to be hard work, but not being afraid of a bit of hard work I got stuck in straight away...

It soon became apparent that there was no way I was going to be able to make meaningful notes on all 150 wines, so I decided to just pick out the highlights and report back on these. Being new to this 'mass wine tasting', I then realised the 'highlights' were invariably the most expensive wines. When you're tasting lots of wines alongside each other the difference in quality is very apparent, and the quality more often than not matches the price. I therefore decided to change tact and go for value for money or QPR (quality price ratio).

Here is my pick of the bunch, I have tried to include links but many of these wines aren't on general sale yet or aren't available in these vintages:

Whites

PX Elqui 2010 - £4.99

An Chilean white using the Pedro Ximanez grape; a grape more usually associated with Sherry. Not the most complex of wines but very good value at under £5. Pale lemon wine with a fairly pronounced aroma apples and green fruit on the palate. Medium to short finish but leaves you wanting lots more, great party wine or for a BBQ when the weather warms up. (7/10)

M'Hudi Sauvignon Blanc 2010 - £8.99

Pale lemon in colour, typical of Sauvignon Blanc. Very crisp, tastes of goosebury and grapefruit, very herbaceous with a nose so fruity and pronounced it is hard to believe they only used grapes to make this wine. Good long finish, a great alternative if you getting a bit bored of NZ Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. (6/10)

M&S Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2008 - £8.99

The best of the Marlborough SBs on the day, not quite up there with Jackson Estate and Cloudy Bay (in my view the best of the Marlborough SBs available in the supermarkets), but less expensive and a fine example. Very fruity, herbaceous with citrus and gooseberries on the palate. Produced by Wither Hills in partnership with M&S. (7/10)

English Bacchus 2009 £10.99

In truth I only mention this one because it is English. It was however crisp and peachy, a high level of acidity as you would expect from a wine from a cool climate. If it was £8.99 I would probably be singing its praises, but £10.99 puts it into a price bracket where there are a better wines available. The yeild on English vines is low making it expensive to produce, so if you're feeling patriotic during the Royal Wedding and don't mind paying a bit over the odds for the privilege of drinking a decent English wine then go for it! (6/10)

Vermintino IGT Lazio 2010 - £6.99

This one is not available until April, it is something to look forward too. Very aromatic, crisp with high acidity but balanced well against the pronounced citrus fruit palate. (7.5/10)

M&S White Burgundy 2010 - £6.99

I have been drinking M&S White Burgundy for years and every vintage is good, consistently providing excellent value for money. The 2010 vintage is no exception. Citrus and apples with a long honeyed finished, crisp and high in acidity but perfectly balanced. Good White Burgundy can be very expensive and so a £6.99 price tag for wine of this quality is all the more astounding. (8/10)

Mersault 2008 - £29

I know look at the price tag. I very rarely paid this much money for a bottle of wine and when I do it is usually a red wine for a special occasion. I would have previous never dreamed of paying this much for a white, however tasting this wine has changed my mind. Quite simply this wine is glorious, the finest example of white Burgundy. Rich and buttery, delightfully oaked the most exquisitely subtle vanilla finish. Sigh....if only I could afford to drink wine of this quality all the time. Outstanding. (10/10)

Reds

Altos del Condor Malbec 2009 - £7.49

This Argentinian Malbec really focused my attention and I without a doubt be purchasing some as soon as it becomes available. A typical and fine example of a Malbec. Deep red almost black in colour, full bodied with a plum like aroma and taste, with a long vanilla oak finish and good strong but well balance tannins. Perfect with Steak or Beef Stew. (9/10)

Los Nucos Carminere Shiraz - £5.49

A bargain red from Chile, excellent value for money. Deep ruby red, medium bodied, medium tannins and quite high in acidity well balanced with red cherry fruit taste. (6/10)

Canelo Cabernet Sauvignon Carminere 2009 - £6.99

A Fair Trade wine and another good value wine from Chile. Deep ruby red, pronounced blackberry fruit taste with a hints of spice, medium tannins and medium bodied. Very nice. (7/10)

Tobiano Pinot Noir 2008 - £19.00

Chile has always made some decent Pinot Noir, nothing special but usually well priced. Given how difficult Pinot Noir is to grow this is some achievement. Even a half decent Red Burgundy usually fetches at least £20. This Pinot Noir is the exception. Burgundy like, silky strawberries on the palate, delicate tannins and a long spicy finish. Exceptionally good wine and a bargain even at £19. (9/10)

Dolphin Bay Shiraz 2010 - £4.99

Light Ruby in colour, medium body with medium tannins. Silky smooth, tastes of red cherry and dark chocolate, medium length warm and satisfying finish. An absolute bargain at under £5. (6/10)

Freedom Ridge Monterey Shiraz 2009 - £8.49
Having shaken off my prejudice to Californian wine, I keep finding myself increasingly impressed by the quality of the wine coming out of there. This wine is no exception, a deep purple/ruby colour, blackberries and spice with a long warm caramel chocolate finish. Highly recommended. (8/10)

Domaine Goerg Rafael Napa Cabernet Sauvignon - £2001 - £30

Fantastic 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Napa Valley in California. Very deep ruby colour and rich blackberries and plum aroma, tastes of opulence. Lovely balanced tannins and acidity - a world class wine. Expensive, but perfect for a special occasion or to impress a friend at a dinner party. (10/10)

Ebenzer & Seppelsfied Shiraz 2009 - £11.99

Everything you want an expect from and Australian Shiraz and more. You will struggle to find a better one at any price. Deep Ruby colour, full bodied black fruit and spice aroma, rich ripe blackberries with delicate vanilla from being aged for 20 months in American oak. My wife will love this one! (9/10)

Rioja Perez Burton 2007 - £9.99

I'm been on the look out for a good Rioja since my favourite Vina Pomal Reserva seems in short supply - if you know where it is on sale drop me a line. This is good example ruby coloured but already started to turn a tad tawny despite being less than 4 years old. Fresh red cherry flavours, medium bodied, mediums tannins. You can taste the oak but not overpowering, not much sign of the vanilla that overpowers a lot of Rioja these days. (7/10)

Nebbiolo d'Alba 2007- £7.99

Made from the Nebbiola grape the same grape that make Borola and Barbaresco and also from Piedmont in Italy. Light Ruby coloured, strong in flavour - vegetal and earthy, balanced with cherries. Quite tannic and good balanced acidity, I recommend alongside Italian tomato based foods. Good value for money. (7/10)

Renato Ratti Nebbiolo 2008 - £12.99.

Another good Nebbiolo and a notch up from the last in terms of quality. Medium Ripe almost dried fruit - red cherries and raspberries the spice from the oak is apparent and well balanced, very good. (8/10)

Chateau Gillet Bordeaux 2009 - £5.99

A decent bargain basement claret. Medium ruby appearance, pronounced aroma and very fruity. Fresh red fruits - strawberries and red cherries. Good acidity and medium tannins a great party or BBQ red wine. Very good QPR! (6/10)

Cotes Du Nuits Villages 2008 - £13.99

Decent Red Burgundy is very expensive, so at £13.99 this is a good entry level bargain basement Red Burgundy. Light bodied but spicy and fruity, pronounced strawberry, red fruit and I thought I could taste eucalyptus. Very good was my conclusion, until I tasted the next Red Burgundy on show... (7/10)

Gevrey-Chambertin 2007 - £29.00

Outstanding Pinot Noir from Burgundy, everything you hope and expect from a top end Red Burgundy. Delicious strawberries and a smooth long, warm, spicy and satisfying finish. Expensive, but you can pay a lot more for a Red Burgundy of this calibre. (10/10)

Baigorri Crianza - 2005 - £10.34 if you buy 12 bottles otherwise £11.49

Surprisingly mature for a Rioja Crianza, but 2005 is a fine year throughout Europe and this is a fine Rioja. Very fruity aroma with red cherry and plum palate, lovely vanilla finish from being aged in French and American oak for 14 months. An M&S Wine Direct wine so only available online or through their monthly subscription programme. (8/10)

Chianti Poggio Piano 2008 - £6.74 if you buy 12 bottles otherwise £7.49

This was in my opinion by far the best of the Chianti on offer and remarkably good value at under £10. Good Chianti is not cheap and believe me this is a very good Chianti. 100% Sangiovese, as with most Chianti you are first hit by the oak aromas, but then the ripe plum fruits and come through with a few swishes of the tasting glass. The palate is very fruity with red cherries and plum, the tannins are present but not over powering and nicely balanced with fruit. High acidity, perfect for Italian food. Only available through M&S Wine Direct. (9/10)

Hunky Dory Pinot Noir - £9.89 if you buy 12 bottles otherwise £10.99

Good value New World Pinot Noir from Marlborough in New Zealand. More full bodied and jammy than a Red Burgundy, but plenty for fresh red fruit in there too. Gentle tannins and a nice long finish. Only available through M&S Wine Direct. (9/10)

Nieto Bonarda 2009 - £11.49 .89 if you buy 12 bottles otherwise £10.99
Full bodied red made from the Bonarda grape, a grape originally from Italy but now almost exclusively grown in Argentina. Deep purple in colour blackberries and plum palate with a rich caramel and spicy vanilla finish. Fairly good tannins so match with red meats and stews. Only available through M&S Wine Direct. (8/10)

Champagnes and Sparkling Wine:

Champagne Desroche NV - £25.00

45% Chardonnay, 25% Pinot Noir and 30% Pinot Meunier. Good Non-Vintage Champagne creamy in texture and gentle yeast. Well structured and good value. (8/10)

Herbert Beaufort Brut Carte d'Or Grand Cru NV - £30

Due to the location in Bouzy this Champagne is Pinot Noir dominant and excellent citrussy champagne, lovely fine bubbles. Aged for 24-30 months. (9/10)

Saint Gall Vintage Premier Cru 2004 - £29

In my view the best of the Champagnes on offer, matured in cellars on the Lees (with the dead yeast), this is buscuity with subtle citrus fruits, very complex. (10/10)


There were a handful of Rose wines on offer. To me Rose is something for a very hot day at a BBQ with grilled meats and salad. Two Rose's perfect for this scenario were the Valdepomares Rioja Risado 2010 - £5.99 and available from May 2011 and the Navarra Rosada 2010 - £6.99.

So there you have it, my pick from 150 wines! More reds than whites but not surprising since I tend to drink red more than white. A good selection and I think something for everyone. This was my first corporate wine tasting but it definitely but it won't be my last, so you will be the first to get the low down on all the new season's releases.

Oddbins is next up I believe!

 

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A Uniquely Argentinian Experience

by Andy 16. February 2011 19:49

At a recent dinner party our host, a wine enthusiast, pulled out a white wine he'd selected to go with his King Prawn Pad Thai. Carefully ensuring I couldn't see the label and eager to test my wine knowledge following my enrolment in a wine tasting course, he set me a challenge - to guess what grape this wine was made from. My only clue being it was from Argentina.

Trying to remember all the steps in the "Systematic Approach to Wine Tasting", I looked at the colour of the wine - clear pale lemon. This only told me the wine was relatively young.

Step 2, I gave it a good swish round the glass and stuck my nose right in inhaling deeply. The aroma came as somewhat of a surprise, not the citrus/lemon smell I was expecting from a Sauvignon Blanc, or the mango and tropical fruits smell you'd expected from an Argentinian Chardonnay. The aroma was very floral, peachy and intensely aromatic and not quite like anything I have smelt before.

The wine was the same on the palate, intense with peach and apricot stone fruits, quite complex. I didn't have a spittoon and didn't want to spit on the carpet so I swallowed. The closest thing I could compare it to was a Voignier. I offered this as my answer knowing I was probably wrong, instantly I could tell by the smile on my host's face I was right - I was wrong.

The grape it seemed was "Torrontes" and it went fabulously with the King Prawn Pad Thai. That point aside, "Torrontes" I exclaimed, "what the hell is torrontes!?". 

It seems Torrontes is a grape that is uniquely grown in Argentina. The next day I decided to do some research. Apparently this grape makes up about 20% of all the wine sold in Argentina, but I'd never heard of it. What fascinated me the most was it was only produced in Argentina, with the exception of a few less successful attempts in neighbouring Chile. I'd always been led to believe that all grapes originated from Europe or North Africa. There are certainly no grape varieties native to Argentina or the Americas, so how did this grape get to Argentina without seemingly leaving any relatives in Europe?

As it turns out, a few years back a number of researchers thought it would be interesting idea to DNA test all the various grape varieties to see when they originate from. Not really relevant to this story but something else I discovered during my investigation is that Zinfandel famously grown in Californian, is the same grape as Primitivo from Southern Italy!  Anyway I digress. It turns out the DNA tests on Torrontes revealed that its origins are in the Eastern Mediterranean. How it got to Argentina still seems a little bit hazy, but presumably it was taken over by Spanish Settlers.

The DNA research goes on to reveal that there is 'high probability' that the grape is most likely a cross between two grape varieties. 'Muscat of Alexandria' originally from Egypt and these days mainly used for producing raisins, and a grape called Criolla.

It seems the Criolla grape is known for being disease resistant and able to withstand environmental stresses such as low water availability and high salt concentrations. Perhaps the sort of grape you might take with you if you were planning on settling in a new country with a potentially harsh and unpredictable climate! The Torrontes grapes thrives in dry and very windy conditions, loves high altitude and so is especially suited to the Andies mountains in Argentina. Some torrontes vineyards are excess of 1700 metres above sea level, significantly higher than Ben Nevis.

Torrentes must have been created by pioneering viticulturists looking for the perfect grape to thrive in this unusual environment, and produce great wine. This grape seems so highly adapted to its unique location high in the Andies mountains it is not viable to grow elsewhere.

Give this grape a try I suspect it will be the next big thing to emerge from Argentina following the success of Malbec.

Incidentally the wine at the dinner party was called Crios Torrontes 2009 Susana Balbo.

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A very good welcome to 2011. Happy New Year.

by Jose 29. January 2011 20:25

This month's blog practically writes itself, give or take. Thanks to my generous friends, since Christmas I have just been drinking their thoughtful wine gifts. So I can simply, metaphorically at least, share these with you .But please don't judge me too harshly for not going out and helping out our depressed economy by buying my own beverage. I will run out of supplies all too soon.

First, a great find. Youngest son has just moved into a mini-jungle with a few rooms attached in darkest Hertfordshire. After the grand tour he and his lovely Fin took us to lunch at a wonderful local country gastro-pub (worth a visit, The Alford Arms nr. Hemel Hempstead). Super food was accompanied by an interesting wine list with more than, to us, a few unknown wines. We decided on one we'd never tasted before because we were intrigued by the name "Cien y Pico Doble Pasta, 2008" Red. (from the Spanish meaning a hundred and a bit). We didn't expect much, particularly as it was reasonably priced. At first tasting we both thought it a pinot noir, and a lovely wine at that. As it turned out, it is made by an Australian , his Bulgarian wife , a Spaniard and an Italian from 100 year old vines (hence the 'hundred and something' name) of the local grape, the Garnacha Tintorera, supposedly a cross of Garnacha (Grenache) and Petit Bouschet, in the Manchuela , Castilla-La Mancha region of Spain, home to Don Quixote. Hints of berries and cherries, fruit concentration and a long finish. A stick-in-the-mud reactionary like me flinched at the screw top which I know is a silly prejudice (a bit like criticising women football referees). As for the label, I'd say it's quite Quixotic. One commentator says "first you see a bright yellow/orange screw-cap, topping an idiosyncratic label (as Zar ,the Australian partner, puts it "a little homage to Spanish and New York taxi cabs meets Cohiba Cuban cigars"). I have found it at http://www.coodencellars.co.uk at £10.99. A steal of a wine, try some. My rating 88.

And so on to Father Christmas, aka Papa Noel. From dear Steve it was a Sonoma-Cutrer, Sonoma coast, 2006 pinot noir, from Windsor, California, USA. Red. I tend to be overly critical of US wines and their modern methods but that's not to say there aren't some excellent US wines. One just needs to be a little picky to find the gems. Well, this one was new to me and I was pleasantly surprised. Medium body with a typical pinot noir aroma reminiscent of black cherry, raspberry and currant.  Various oenologists and sommeliers speak of pinot noir as "the most romantic of wines, with so voluptuous a perfume, so sweet an edge, and so powerful a punch that, like falling in love, they make the blood run hot and the soul wax embarrassingly poetic" , "sex in a glass" and "a seductive yet fickle mistress!". I'm sure that my teetotal wife couldn't possibly object if I help myself to a bit of that! A wine I certainly recommend, though it's not easy to find. I found it online at everywine.co.uk for £23.27. My rating 85.

From my lovely neighbour Dawn I received a lovely pinot blanc, Weingut Bercher, Burkheimer Feuerberg Weißburgunder Spätlese trocken, Großes Gewächs, 2004.White. Again a new wine for me (I love writing this blog; I'm obliged to drink new wines!). A full-bodied dry white wine (14.5%). A nose of the classic pinot blanc: melon, salted almonds, biscuit and, as you drink it, it gets more complex tastes. Don't be fooled, this is a powerful wine - some may find it a little heavy - but matched with strong food it's a delight. I thoroughly enjoyed. Again, difficult to find (the 2008 is easier) but it retails at about £7.50. That's a good price for a good wine. My rating 85.

As I read this, I find it's all pinot this and pinot that so far. Let's see what else there was.

Well , still staying within the Burgundy region grape-types, a friend dropped in several bottles of a simple, straight-forward, easy-drinking Chablis from Union des Viticulteurs de Chablis , 2007. White. I've had this before as it's a staple in my cellar. Apple fruit and citrus flavours and classic mineral finish. Served chilled either as an aperitif or with tapas, light meals or white fish, it's n easy choice. Tesco has it at £7.11 in a case of 6. My rating 80.

Eldest son brought me Rioja Castillo Labastida, Manuel Quintano 2006. Red. 100% tempranillo, gently-oaked, aged for 12 months in American oak. Deep red colour, spice and black cherry, ripe tannin. He must have remembered I'd enthused about it in the past. Sensible lad, remembering what gets Dad in a good mood. Now, son, you won't be looking for a loan anytime soon, will you? (about £8). My rating 85.

Driving said son home one evening, after our good deed in visiting a family member in hospital, we stopped for a casual meal at an Italian trattoria. I was driving, so would have just one glass of wine with the meal. My sensible, conscientious son decided likewise so as not to lead me astray. We chose our food and asked the waiter if he had Chianti Classico by the glass. " No, he says, but there is a Chianti". He looked a bit out of Fawlty Towers .We said "OK, that will do fine, two glasses please". He stopped by again to announce there was no Chianti by the glass after all, but that he had a Valpolicella. Once again we said "OK, two glasses of that please". He then arrives with a half bottle of Merlot Corvina Veneto Le Poesie (Cantina di Soave) 2009. Red! We fell about .Enough of this, OK, pour it. And what a lovely surprise. With a dry flavour, a deep ruby red colour, bouquet of blackberry. There was no denying the appeal. Hints of dark berry fruit and finished with the velvety soft texture of merlot. Perfect with the Italian fare on offer. And surprise, the waiter turned out to be intelligent, funny, attentive and interesting. Must have been having a laugh on us, winding us up? Maybe. It's on at www.everywine.co.uk at £7.40. My rating 80.

One step below the mainstream 'Denominación de Origen' (the Spanish wine quality ladder) is 'Vino de la Tierra' (wine of the land) one of which is in Castilla. One of my visitors during the holidays brought me a variety of wines amongst which was a Syrah Altillo, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla. Bright cherry colour, with a tinge of purple. Quite a greedy nose with hints of milkyness. On the palate fleshy, agreeable and with a strong aftertaste. All in all, it took a couple of sips to get into it. I can't say it was wonderful, but certainly drinkable and with a variety of nibbles to hand, not too bad a drink. Difficult to find. It's one you pick up locally and bring home as a souvenir/reminder. My rating 78.

Two wines from the same region.  Ribera del Duero, Val de Oron, 2006. 100% Tempranillo. A full bodied classic Ribera del Duero. Another wine I've had before. A lovely inexpensive example of this trendy wine region. Classy fruity oak-aged red. A bargain at £8.50. My rating 80.

Abadia Mantrus Ribera del Duero Reserva 2004. Same region as before but a totally different wine. Missing class, I'd say treat this as a simple table wine (never mind the Reserva tag). But there are a lot of better Ribera del Duero. Widely available in Spanish supermarkets at about €5.50. So if you find yourself in Spain, go ahead its drinkable. I can't find it in the UK, where it'd probably sell for about £4.50 but not worth seeking it out.

Got a surprise gift for my birthday from my good friend Fran. A mixed case of carefully selected wine for yours truly's delight. Getting through it slowly (we are in difficult economic times, after all - news just out our economy shrank 0.5%) and I will report soon. I'm really looking forward to it.

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A White Christmas

by Jose 21. December 2010 22:15

A White Christmas

Christmas is a time to share with friends and family and to indulge ourselves a little. Advice on wine selection for the holidays is nowadays everywhere, which leaves some, and especially the occasional drinker, as confused as when there's no advice to be found.

 Am I about to cut through the fog or confuse you further?  Let's have a go.

There are numerous excellent and knowledgeable wine writers in the daily press and on TV station websites. But, I think most importantly these days it's the supermarkets which come into its own at this time of year. I've scoured the said newspaper wine columnists' recommendations, read through the TV websites and checked out the supermarkets and here's my list of selections and recommendations (and my own personal choice) for a modest budget. Among my favourite writers are Victoria Moore at The Daily Telegraph, Matthew Jukes at The Daily Mail, Olly Smith at The Mail on Sunday because they're down to earth and offer practical advice. So let me first acknowledge them, and their fellow wine writers and broadcasters, for their sterling work and research. But, if you're in doubt, do talk to your wine supplier, be it the specialist wine shop or your local supermarket - they're full of experience and, I find, are eager to assist to fit any budget. Be adventurous and develop your own preferences: give me your recommendations.

I wish you and yours good and responsible drinking and a very MERRY CHRISTMAS.

Christmas Turkey. A white to accompany the turkey is the obvious choice but as there are lots of other flavours on the plate you can choose widely from:

     (Red) Sangiovese, Chianti, Zinfadel, Syrah [Shiraz], Beajolais Nouveau 

     (White) Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Trebbiano,

My white choice is "Alerce Reserve Bio Bio Chardonnay Vionier Riesling" (£7.49) and my red Chateau Florie Aude 2009 (£5.32)


Roast Beef works best with a considerable red: choose from Tempranillo, Merlot, Rhone, Syrah/Shiraz, ZinfandelMy choice goes with Matthew Jukes' selection of The Definitive Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot (Majestic £12.99, down to £9.99 if you buy 2 bottles).

Lamb also needs a substantial red. Choose from Pinot Noir, Cabernet, Rioja, Merlot, Red Rhone, Syrah/Shiraz, Zinfandel, Barolo, Malbec. Or at a mere £3.99 in Tesco try Gran Teroso Granacha 2009. I love a good Rioja with lamb so my choice is 2005 Bodegas Muriel Rioja Barón de Barbón Selección Especial, but, as it's difficult to find, a good alternative is Cerro de la Mesa 2007 Crianza, Rioja. (Waitrose £9.49). Another fine match is Marques de Murrieta 1999 Tinto Reserva, Spain (£11.99; Justerini & Brooks, Safeway, Sainsbury's, Selfridges).

Goose and pheasant.  Choose a red from: Pinot Noir, Merlot, Sangiovese, Chianti, Barbaresco, Red Bordeaux, Cabernet, Grenache, Syrah/Shiraz,Zinfandel. Otherwise, a white Chardonnay works well. Big choice here but, traditionally, and my choice would have to be a Pinot Noir , say  Bouchard Aîné et Fils, Red Burgundy 2009  (Waitrose £8.54) or Blason de Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2009 (Tesco £6.64). Also well recommended is 2001 Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge, Blain-Gagnard, Burgundy, France (£11.99; Majestic).

Fish. Usually a white, but not necessarily, from Bordeaux, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, White Rhone, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Trebbiano. But, as a Spaniard and a lover of good dry sherry I would choose a Manzanilla, served very cold, such as Antonio Barbadillo, Manzanilla Solear Sherry, 37.5 cl (£4.74). But my favourite is Manzanilla Pasada Pastrana, Bodegas Hildago, luckily a preference well noted by my sons so I can expect a bottle or two in my Christmas stocking. Santa has been notified to keep it well away from the hearth as it is best served well chilled.

And for your parties try from:

Champagne Monteau Brut (Victoria Wine, £9.99)

Casablanca 2003 Pinot Noir, Chile, red (£4.99; Marks & Spencer).

Flor de Maig 2000, Montsant, Spain, red (£6.49; Marks & Spencer).

D'Arenberg 2000 d'Arry's Original Shiraz Grenache, McLaren Vale, Australia, red (£7.99; Oddbins).

Tesco Langhorne Creek Verdelho 1997, white (£5.99)

Some suppliers' contact numbers:  

Asda 0500 100055;

Budgens 020 8422 9511;

Harrods 020 7730 1234;

Majestic 01923 298200;

Marks & Spencer 020 7268 1234;

Morrisons 01274 494166;

Oddbins 0800 328 2323;

Safeway 01622 712926;

Sainsbury 0800 636262;

Selfridges 020 7318 3730;

Somerfield 0117 935 9359;

Tesco 0800 505555;

Thresher 01707 387200;

Unwins 01322 272711;

Waitrose 0800 188884;

Wine Rack 01707 387200;


 

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Jose's Wine Blog A look back at Autumn 2010

by Jose 19. December 2010 20:21

Bebido con amigos sabe bien cualquier vino

Spanish proverb , loosely translated : "Drunk with friends any wine tastes good"

What a long gap. What have I been doing? Where has the time gone? I'm going to have to believe it's true when they say the older you get the quicker time passes. So what? If it passes so quickly, I must be enjoying whatever I'm not doing, wherever I'm not going and whoever............whoops, enough, let's stop there.

Anyway, what happened to summer and the Indian summer we were almost promised? Looking back, August was wet, save for a brief spell in mid-month we got rain, lots of rain, the temperature got above 24C once and just before month-end it actually got past 24C and actually hit 26C.  September and October can be summed up as ditto. So to escape, my dear wife (the reason I drink so much) took me away to Northern Europe, in particular Finland, Poland and Russia - now please don't think me  a misogynist, but  ,come on, these are not too well known for blistering heat and clear skies. So we packed the packamacs and off we went. I know what you're thinking, where's the wine in all this schpeel? It's coming. As luck would have it, my dear friends Pav and Joy, celebrating their sapphire wedding anniversary, came with us (I think it was her way of punishing him) on the cruise - destination St Petersburg.  This was good news for me [my wife is teetotal] as they both enjoy a tipple and it's nice to have someone to drink with; not that it's ever stopped me drinking alone, I can chat away, uninterrupted, to a decent glass any day. Try that with the wife, chance would be a fine thing.  So dear friends to the wine.  In general, we mostly only drank with meals.

Lanson Black Label NV- A good staple, well structured champagne, lemony, good acidity, and clean finish.  (Majestic £30, but deals available for 2 or more (editors note - currently on offer at Majestic £23)). We enjoyed this with delicate canapés on the anniversary night. A lovely drink to start a wonderful evening. At dinner we followed this with Pouilly Fuisse,Domaine du Chalet Pouilly,D.B. 2005. (White, 100% -Chardonnay). This is classic white wine from Burgundy. An excellent choice - well rounded with hints of oak and lemon. It turned into one of our favourite dependable whites during the cruise. On other nights we also had the 2007 which we found equally good .The 2007 was well received by The Wine Spectator Magazine: "Shows fine intensity, with the vivid structure driving its stone, lemon and mineral flavours. This is almost too powerful now, but the long, smooth finish reveals both the harmony and the beauty of this white."  Expect to find it at anything between £14 and £18. My rating 90.  For red we chose Marqués de Riscal Reserva 2005 (Red - about 90% tempranillo). A classic Rioja style: fresh, fine, elegant. Dark cherry colour, oaky and spicy. Widely available at about £11. My rating 90.  

Given that we were effectively using the same restaurant for two weeks, sometimes for lunch and dinner, we were pleasantly surprised at the good choice of wine available. Among our regular tipples were;

Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2007 (White . Sauvignon Blanc grapes 2010 available at Majestic).  An excellent example from the highly regarded region of Marlborough, New Zealand, gently acidic, full of fruit, citrus, fresh and crisp. Available for about £17.99. My rating 86.

Chablis St Martin, Laroche, 2007 D.B. (White, Chardonay, Burgundy) An award winner and an excellent fantastic wine. Hints of mineral, buttery overtones .About £17. My rating 92.

Marqués de Cáceres 2007 (white) . Rich, dry from Rioja. An aromatic wine with flavours of apples, pears and a light floral background. Light at first taste then intensifying, very drinkable, a subtle easily quaffable drink. Good example of a white Rioja. Widely available £7.99 pears and a light floral background. Light at first, taste then intensifying, a subtle easily quaffable drink. Great example of a white Rioja. . My rating 88. (2009 available at Oddbins)

Chianti Classico DOCG Castello Di Selvone (red). Italy, Tuscany. A full-bodied dry red wine, dark cherry colour. I was hoping for an intense rich wine with good structure, but it disappointed and added nothing to an excellent meal. It wasn't the choice of food, as we were not all eating the same. I'm a great fan of Chianti Classico and have found many good versions both for home drinking and in restaurants. £12.73 My rating 76.

Casa Silva Single Vineyard Merlot 2005 (Red, Chile, Angostura). A full bodied complex wine with lots of ripe fruit and the tell-tell smoothness of merlot. New to me .Held up well even with the rich food it accompanied. Would make an easy choice for a novice wine-drinker and it's inexpensive. My rating 85.

Getting home I heard from my good friend Martin, based in New York, who had recently returned from a visit to Australia and I pass on his bon mots:

 "I came across a number of wines, mainly from Margaret River in Western Australia and close to where I was based. This is an area that comprises only 4% of the country's production but does make some outstanding wines. Difficult to find here in the US but may be more easily available in UK. If so I commend your readers to sample one or two. I think the reds are very good although some of the whites can also hold their own with anyone.

One night we went to dinner with a guy who had lived in Richmond for 28 years and his wife made a damn fine steak & kidney pie. Anyway, we had a Tasmanian Sparkler called 42degrees South. Good- I don't know why I was surprised but not at all shabby. Anyway, with the aforementioned steak & kidney we had a spectacular Penfolds Grange (Vintage slips my mind as I didn't peer). Anyway, full, soft, blackberry tones

I would also recommend Cape Mentel & Kialis, both red, not inexpensive but memorable.

Closer to home in the US but still international I have the following to offer in no particular order.

Wishing Well 2006 Shiraz, Western Australia and selected for the Australian premium Wines Collection. A classic Shiraz (or Syrah if you prefer) Red & Black fruit with a touch of spice & pepper.

Another Shiraz, this time from McClaren Vale in South Australia rejoices in the name of Blue Eyed Boy 2006 Good example of the type but @ 16% alcohol you don't need too much!

Michael Sundberg in Sonoma produces a Reserve Cabernet that is well made and very good. The one I tried is 2007 and would benefit from a little  time in the cellar to reach full potential

Finally, for those with some spare cash I think that CA' MARCANDA 'Promis' is one of the most outstanding wines I have tasted in some time. A friend brought a bottle of the 2004 to dinner recently and the other guests were almost fighting to get a glass. The vintage I tried is 2004 and hard to find 

 

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A (very) rough guide to ordering wine in a restaurant.

by Andy 5. December 2010 23:36

I was recently chatting with Rhonda the chef of one of Chorleywood's finest gastronomic delights; the Rose and Crown. A delightful little pub and restaurant (more restaurant than pub) on the common. Both of us share a passion for cooking, her a talented professional and me an enthusiastic amateur. Steering the conversation towards wine I commented on how most restaurants get their wine from smaller suppliers, so you tend not to recognise any wines when presented with the wine list. This inevitably prompts the a charade I'm sure most of us are familiar with; seemingly considering each wine like a Master Sommelier, then ordering the second cheapest bottle. One reason restaurant like to sell wine you've never heard of, as Rhonda pointed out was so the customer doesn't realise the mark-up.

I'm now pretty confident I know my way around wine in the supermarket or on sale with the major retailers. I'm certainly not short of new recommended wines I want to try. But ordering wine in a restaurant for me, like it must be for most people, is a risky business. I do however have two crucial rules to reduce the risk:

1. If the wine is from an prestigious appellation such as Chablis, Sancerre, Chateauneuf-Du-Pape or an expensive grape and region combo such as a Pinot Noir from Burgundy, then I give it a wide berth as it is usually either a) out of my price range or b) not very good.

2. Next is food pairing. Full bodied Shiraz or Malbec for beef, a slightly lighter red for lamb such as a Rioja or Chianti, a more buttery white wine for white meat such as Chardonnay and for fish something a little more crisp and citrus such as a Chenin Blanc or Sauvignon Blanc With a curry it is usually a pint of Cobra.

And there you have it, my guide to ordering wine in a restaurant!

Anyway coming back to mark up on wine. Rhonda's point was proven to me very recently. After a rather disappointing experience at the Grove in Watford, my wife and I decided to try a new restaurant called 'Friends' in Pinner. When I say new, I mean new for us. Judging by the numerous AA rosettes around the place stretching back to the 1990s to the present day, the restaurant has been around for some time. The food is French/Modern British and was very good, not quite the same level as some of the really good restaurants you get in the West End, but good none the less and at a fraction of the cost. The 3 course set menu was £31 a head and 25% off if you booking through Top Table. All in all very good meal. Unlike most restaurants though, Friends in Pinner did not buy their wine from a small retailer, they bought it from a retailer I am very familiar with; Majestic. Many of the wines on the wine list have been reviewed on this website, so I was also very familiar with their price..

My wife was having steak and I was having lamb so we ordered a Rhone - Côtes-du-Rhône Belleruche 2007, a wine highly praised by Robert Parker no less. This is a pleasant wine and one I have bought on occasion from Majestic. The online price £6.99 for two bottles, in the restaurant £25. The funny thing was if I'd not known the cost before ordering I'd have thought nothing amiss with the price. I spotted another favourite of my the Alomos Malbec 2007 and as the Jane MacQuitty from The Time points out "this tasty red oozes with lively, ripe, spiced plum and loganberry fruit", however £27 on the wine list and £7.49 in Majestic (albeit a different year). The Chateauneuf Du Pape on the wine list was £35 and as per rule 2 gave it a wide berth. Now I rarely if ever pay £35 for a bottle of wine, and if I did I'd have very high expectations in a restaurant or otherwise. If we talking about mark up of 350% or more, we're looking at a £10 bottle of Chateauneuf du Pape in the supermarket. In my experience a £10 bottle of Chateauneuf Du Pape is not good value for money (even at £10). I'm guessing you need to pay at least £50 in a restaurant for a well chosen Chateauneuf Du Pape.

I think I was happier in blissful ignorance, but I suppose this is subsidises the food.

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A Holiday in Chianti

by Andy 6. November 2010 20:17

View from the Guinigi Tower in Lucca

A lot has happened since my last update including the birth of our second son. It is very time consuming looking after a baby and a toddler and leaves little time for blogging. I will give you an abridged version from then to our two weeks holidaying in small town in Italy called Dicomano,Tuscany.

In my last update I briefly mentioned my wife had given birth to our second son. I won't go into too much detail - I'm sure you don't want the graphic details and if you do there is plenty of information elswhere on the internet.  I shall try to focus on wine! Suffice to say I received a call from my wife at midday 29th June to say  she was getting twinges, by 3pm a got a second call "leave immediately" by 9pm it was all over and I was proudly holding my second son.

Back onto the theme of wine, my ever trusty father was soon over with a chilled bottle of Champagne to celebrate -  Joseph Perrier a rich creamy wine chardonnay based champagne. Not bad, but I suspect he got it as a present, it was the sort of champagne you get with flowers and chocolates from Interflora.

Since my last update I have also been welcomed into the warm embrace of the wine bloggers world! Andrew Barrow who runs amongst other the www.spittoon.biz invited me to A.R.S.E.2 - Andrew's Really Secret Event 2. This as the name suggests was the second such event, the location secret until the last minute and quite conveniently was the a few stops up from me on the Chiltern Line. We tasted some very good wines, since this is an abridged version of what has happened I ask kindly that you read Andrew's review of the event for fuller details (click here). It was a great day, I met some very nice people and could finally walk around sniffing wine, swirling iit n the glass, swishing it about in my mouth talking 'lingering tannins' without risk of being called a prat. Andrew put on a great spread as well (well Waitrose Entertaining did) and one of his friends baking a great selection of cakes.

Sitting around at home I have had the following wines. Rustenberg John X Merriman 2007, very nice deep ruby red wine made from the Shiraz grape. Fruity on the first sip with some acidity which fades leaving that very light tannins, I'm told this bottle will age well and their blurb on the back says it can be laid down for up to 15 years.

I was recommended the Koonunga Hill Seventy Six 2008, this is not the standard Koonunga Hill which has become fairly mediocre over recent years but a homage to the original Koonunga Hill of 1976 which I'm told was legendary, I'm too young to have experienced it firsthand of course. The Koonunga Hill Seventy Six is everything you hope and expect from and Australian Shiraz, rich full bodied thick blackberry flavours, a long finish and subtly tannic. This wine is available at Waitrose for a bargain £6.74 as part of their 25% off sale - normal price is £8.84.

The Tim Adams Protégé Shiraz has been frequently on my shopping list since being 25% off at Tesco (£7.50 reduced from £10) great at a tenner, even better at £7.50! Now winter is here I'm getting back in to big Aussie Shiraz. Like the Koonunga , the Tim Adams is a another rich, very fruity dark forest fruits with a long finish and quite spicy. Similar to the Koonunga Hill but more spice and a longer finish so comparing the two I'd say this just about shades it. 

Our long awaited holiday in Tuscany finally arrived, a bit of a risk taking a plane journey with a 2 year old and a 3 month year old but not as bad as feared. The 3 month year old slept through most of it and the 2 year old was bribed by chocolate buttons; he couldn't  believe his luck.

Tuscany is  home to the Chianti region of Italy, famed for it's bold full bodied and usually oaked reds. The Chianti region is split into 9 sub- regions  Classico, Colli Senesi, Colli Aretini, Colli fiorentina,  Colline Pisane,  Montabano, Montespertali and Rufina. We were situated in the Rufina area.

The first week was staying in a vineyard called Il Lago. We first discovered Il Lago whilst staying at in the are 5 years before. We popped in to taste some of their wine and noticed they also have holiday villa sprinkled amongst their 400 hectares of land. My memories of the wine tasted are somewhat faded, however it must have been quite good since we left with quite a few bottles. The wine upon my return was not as good as I remember, I did enjoy their Pian de Guardi but at 15 Euros a bottle at source I would expect it to be good. I've had better for under £10 in the UK. 

Whilst the landscape was fantastic the accommodation could have been better, we arrived in the middle of the night and were told we'd been 'upgraded'. I suspect the people who had originally booked our apartment turned it away upon arrival. The accommodation was very basic to say the least. I would consider going back as the location was fantastic, but not in the same villa.

The second week we stayed in a place called Il Nidi Belforte, this was not a vineyard but an Agritourismo- a style of vacationing in farm house in Italy although other than a few olive groves I saw very little evidence of farming. The accommodation was on a different level to Il Lago and quite deservedly won Best in Class in the area. We had a 3 bed farmhouse with a great big lounge and kitchen/diner area and it's own private garden just a few yards from a swimming pool, which unlike the swimming pool in Il Lago was cleaned meticulously every day. At Il Lago you had to swim through a sea of dead insects and my wife nearly swallowed a praying mantis.

I tried numerous Chianti's whilst I was out there, one that particularly sticks in the memory was Poderi del Paradiso Chianti Colli Senesi 2009. We had this at a restaurant in a carafe whilst having lunch in St Gimignano a fantastic walled medieval hill town near Siena. I was surprised how good it was for a house wine and found out where I could buy it. It was on sale for 5 Euros a bottle, a brilliant bargain at that price so I stocked up for our return to the farmhouse, all the more suprising as I generally found the decent Chianti wines to be a bit expensive (dare I say over priced?). A quick Google search shows it is possible to buy this wine in the UK for £9.50 a bottle from a firm called Great Western Wines.

I will finish up but before I do though I have to recommend one place that in Tuscany that is a must for any wine enthusiasts in the area. The Wine Museum in Greve, a wine cellar with dozens of bottles of wine set up in sampling machines. You buy a prepayment card and can sample the wines with the cost of each sample being deducted from your card. The sample is the same size regardless of the cost of the wine but the amount taken off you card increases the more expensive the bottle, so for 5 euros you can try a 200 Euro bottle of wine. An experience I would never have otherwise! Check out their website it even has a little film showing you what to do.


My updates will be more frequent from now on...

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An English Summer

by Jose 10. August 2010 22:07

Only in England. It could only happen in England , in an English summer ; a mini short-lived  heatwave in the south (as soon as the barbeque is lit the summer's gone), floods in the northwest, highest July rainfall for years , a hosepipe ban, a foreign national football team manager, cricket failure (with attendant disparaging critical press) quickly followed by cricket success (understated plaudits from the press), football disappointment in South Africa, annual disappointment at Wimbledon but no rain (the expensive state-of-the-art weather-proof roof has not been required since it was built) and, for added interest,  the country  saddled with a pushme-pullme coalition government. Never a dull moment. Bah to the Costas' daily sunshine - so warm, so reliable, so predictable. Where's the struggle in that?

But, hey, what an excuse to mix and change and try all sorts of drinks to fit the day's conditions. And what an impressive selection, variety and range of wines we now have. When I first arrived in England in 1955 there was little more than cream sherry and the like of "Rocamar" red table wine at the affordable end and everything else was mostly for the privileged few with the wherewithal. Now everything is possible and a great deal of it within most budgets. The supermarkets now carry very extensive and impressive ranges of wines from all over the World and the high street wine retailers offer superb knowledgeable service. I hope you find something to like in the following, and there's quite a choice.

Henley Regatta came and went and in super sunshine. This quintessential English festival, with its aura of Edwardian elegance, superb athletes and one of the best loved stretches of the Thames is perfect for a traditional glass of Pimms or champagne. Whilst the rowers gave their all (and there's no prize money at stake, it's for sporting camaradie and glory) we, of less physical prowess, settled for lunch by the riverbank. A Viognier Leduc Languedoc 2009 (look for it at about £8.00) went well with a terrine of salmon and crayfish with saffron.  This is a fresh and lively example of Viognier, light acidity, perfect for summer. My rating 80.  

We followed this with a Chateau Reynier 2006 Bordeaux (cabernet sauvignon and merlot) to accompany thyme and rosemary roasted chicken with artichoke. This is the club claret which I favour for its pleasant soft ripe fruit easy-drinking quality (£8.80). My rating 85.

Post-Regatta but in the same town and with the sun still shining, I tried another good summer white. Trebbiano IGT Rubicone Poggio della Quercia Emilia Romagna Veneto, Italia, NV. (£5.80) I can't resist giving you the whole name. Try saying it aloud and give it your best Italian lilt or, better still, sing it. Who cares what the wine is like? How could you not like it with such sing-song poetry? From the banks of the Rubicon river (yes, you know it from the Roman Caesars' crossings). A non-vintage easily quaffable fresh, dry, fruity, citrusy white. I know it's sacrilege, but I make it into a spritzer with good (Hildon) sparkling water, a couple of cubes of ice and the thinnest sliver of lemon. Great on a summers' day. My rating 75.

A bit of business got me out to Gibraltar for a couple of days, so I took the opportunity to look around and sample the local food and drink. I don't want to do any disservice to their tourist office but, my, what dismal food almost everywhere. So the exceptions easily stand out. Even some of the waiters I chatted to said they saved going out for a meal for when they were over the border in La Linea. I took a walk to the impressive modern marina in a great setting with its myriad bars, clubs and restaurants, largely carved out of land reclaimed from the sea. Visually it's stunning and at night it is full of twinkling lights reflected on the gently lapping sea. Wonderful beautiful yachts, against a hint of the dying sun as it disappears below the horizon, wafting music, chat and laughter. I tried a couple of the bars but didn't last long once inside; all indifferent service and poor interiors. What a waste of excellent  restaurant sites, all noisy, low ceilinged, with mishmash decor, over-fussy menus, top prices and rock bottom cooking. I even went back next day to ensure it wasn't me being fussy. But no improvement. At Bianca's restaurant, a noisy place with sound ricocheting from the low ceiling (and on my visit there was a gaggle of noisy shrill girls enjoying a reunion).We were three for dinner and all three meals were left hardly touched. We tried to keep the order simple (a vegetable lasagne, a vegetable risotto and fish cakes with parsley sauce. Uck to all three. I ordered a glass of Rioja and was served a barely drinkable plonk (and I drink most anything!). And just when things couldn't get worse, it did. A dreadfully out of tune trio just about topped it.

Thankfully, and now quite late, to the timeless elegance of the Rock Hotel. Impeccable service, impeccable cocktails and a light snack of fresh lovely food served al fresco high up on the Rock with wonderful views of the gardens below and across the bay of Algeciras and the sierras beyond. As we'd been late and not given it the attention it deserved, we returned next day for a fuller meal. We were immediately served a complimentary glass of Manzanilla ( a type of dry sherry with a salty tang) , a perfect aperitif before our starter of roasted sea scallops with pata negra (a wonderful cured ham) , garlic pommes purée and  a caper velouté , followed by slow braised pork belly with roast garlic and chorizo. With the starter we drank Freixenet Cordon Negro Brut, Cava; crisp, very dry clean tasting with low acidity and a good alternative to champagne. £6.64 at Waitrose Direct. My rating 80. 

With the braised pork we had Ribera del Duero "Crianza" Pesquera 2006 Tempranillo, by Alejandro Fernández. Wonderful silky smooth lightly oaked with forest fruit .I've seen it retail at up to £18.45 but it is widely available at about £16.70. My rating 92.

Once last attempt at finding decent local restaurant food in Gib took me to the lovely La Mamela restaurant (from a derivative Spanish word for breast- so named after the rock formation at the end of the beach resembling said mammary) an excellent, atmospheric fish eatery at the southern end of the beach in Catalan Bay.

Old fashioned courtesy and service, superb menu and reasonable wines. We had local fresh gallo, a type of dory, superb garnish and salad. A tad expensive, but real food to be highly commended.

I couldn't resist popping over into Spain for the couple of spare hours I had. I just have to recommend "La Velada" (at No.6 Calle Oviedo La Linea) a wonderful local tapas bar (more properly a meson - a sort of inn/tavern) run by Alicia and Andres, both of whom are excellent hosts. No tourist here, just regulars, where I was taken by my cousins. All manner of lovely local delicacies, fresh fish, tapas and a super selection of (predominantly Spanish) wines. If you're in the area, a worthwhile visit. I was so delighted that I promised Andres I'd give them a mention.

One of the pleasures of writing this blog is having to try new wines, something I relish. Another pleasure, most welcomed, are the comments, messages, recipes, samples and suggestions from friends (with occasional criticisms). Recently, for instance, my friend Pav staying with me recently, brought along a selection of bottles as a gift. These included wines from the award winning winery, Wolf Blass Eaglehawk Shiraz 2008, Australia (red), inexpensive for such quality, easiest to find on the internet at about £7.09. Medium bodied, subtle oak and spicy red berry fruit, with a long finish, a powerful partner for BBQs and lamb; and Wolf Blass Eaglehawk Chardonnay 2009, Australia (white) £6.50, an excellent chardonnay at an excellent price.

Another golfing friend, John from darkest Somerset, who offers comments from to time (some of it unprintable) sent me a bottle to try from his winemaker friend (www.latourdechollet.com), La Tour de Chollet 2007, cuvee classique, Sainte-Foy Bordeaux (12.5%).  I loved this wine, even if you allow that I'm a great fan of Bordeaux, a fruity un-oaked wine, predominately merlot with cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. A bargain. Price for 6 bottles £47.94 direct from info@latourdechollet.com. My rating 92.                    (They also make a premium version 'Prestige' predominantly cabernet sauvignon and aged in oak barrels, but I've not yet tasted this).

My wife's cousin Guy, who lives close to the New Forest (I don't think it's in a tree, but who knows? The wife's family are a bit funny that way) hid a bottle for me to try , in the huge box of chocolates he brought her .But that hasn't been drunk yet, so I'll tell you about it next time.

One of my cousins in Spain handed me some local bottles, all of which he stressed were inexpensive, some of which I have now been consumed. Difficult to find in the UK but widely available in supermarkets across Spain:

Ojogalla El Clarete rose Bodegas los Tinos SA 11.5%. A decent rose which I enjoyed during our recent warm weather with a light al fresco lunch. Less than €5. My rating 80.

Dolce Prima 5 % Muscatel. A Moscatel wine, a naturally sweet wine, served very cold it's delicious on a sunny day, served at room temperature it's a decent dessert wine. Malaga is an excellent area for this wine type, of which is a good example. My rating 85.

Codorniu Herencia 1551 cava 11.5%. Produced by small family businesses with a small production. An excellent Sparkling Cava from Cataluña, pale straw yellow colour, unmistakable aromatic Chardonnay notes excellent balance between acidity and sugar. My rating 88. About €27, but free to me courtesy of cousin Paco. What a wonderful man!

As a Spaniard, I think that by now my compadres paisanos  would have expected me to celebrate Spain's wonderfully successful summer of sport and maybe gloat  the glut of  glory (with good grace of course) of the World Cup, Wimbledon, Tour de France and even the odd Formula 1 Grand Prix . What's to brag about? We didn't win any Golf majors. How about it Miguel Angel Jimenez? You only ever manage number 2.  But, hey, just all the above tastings should be celebration enough. It never ceases to amaze me just how much choice there is out there. And with the supermarkets outdoing one another it's easy to try something new inexpensively.

Went to Sunday lunch en famille with said friend Pav above. I had opted for a Greek restaurant, the Green Olive of which there are several in the South East. As Pav is of Greek origin we left the ordering to him, on the basis that speak the lingo and you get the better service. It didn't disappoint from the first ouzo to the last dregs of the wine. I've often had their Gaia Notios Agiorgitiko, 2008 Crete (red) and can recommend it. Very fruity style, bursting with ripe plum flavours. Greek friends tell me they like it chilled to go with a cold picnic (the restaurant price of a bottle is £25). But on a recent return visit, as I was going to be driving a few hours later in the day, I opted for water and a small glass of the house red. Now, house wine can be great and is usually great value, but this one was left after the first tentative sip. Instead I asked for a replacement, a rioja. And, presto, a new discovery for me ,so I asked to see the bottle and  it was an excellent Bodegas Artesa 2007 Rioja Crianza (13%).(restaurant price £20 bottle). In the shops at £7.75. My rating 85. I've since looked at their website where they list their menus and wine list (an excellent idea - which should be adopted more widely by restaurants) and they have an interesting eclectic list including wines from many countries. Well done Green olive.

One last addition: at a recent golf dinner (where the wine is usually supplied rather than chosen) I was taken by the red Esperanza Merlot Mendoza (13%) Argentina 2009. Impressively smooth, with salient spice, red fruit and a good longish aftertaste. A great drink at £4.79 at Majestic.

To those of you, friends and all, who've sent me comments and suggestions for inclusion, you're not forgotten. Please keep them coming, I'll get round to it all eventually.

We're in mid-summer and as temperatures start to recede it's time to think about replacing the light lunches- try this:


Chicken breast fillets with a rich sauce of peppers and tomato puree.


    2 chicken breast fillets.

    25gms cured ham (jamon).
    1 onion.
    1 green pepper
    1 red pepper
    1 aubergine (medium size)
    3 tablespoons tomato puree
    1 teaspoon chopped parsley
    1 tablespoon olive oil
   Salt and pepper

Preparation

1. Dice the ham into small pieces, peel and chop the onion and peppers.

2. Peel the aubergine and cut into squares.

3. Season the chicken.

4. In an earthenware dish - fry the fillets in the oil, both sides.

5. Add the ham and sauté for a few seconds.

6. Add the onion and peppers and sauté for a few minutes.

7. Add the aubergine and sauté briefly.

8. Cover the pan and cook over low heat.

9. When the vegetables begin to brown add the tomato, salt to taste, and stir the mix a little.

10. When the sauce is well reduced serve, adorn with the chopped parsley.

Accompany with your choice from a chardonnay, a Chianti, Rosso di Montalcino, Rioja, or Cabernet Sauvignon. If you've made the dish tomato-rich go for one of the reds

 

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What a shambles...

by Andy 6. July 2010 22:02

I refer of course to England's shambolic performances in the World Cup. They thoroughly deserved their defeat at the hands of Germany and no wrongly disallowed goal is going to change that. Perhaps it is the demands of the domestic game, but they were poor from start to finish in the tournament.

For the final game my wife and I were invited to a BBQ at our friends Justin's house (not Justin from India). He'd borrowed a projector from work to show the game on his dining room wall and  had a 32in flat screen in the kitchen. To placate the children there was a TV in the lounge showing Peppa Pig, Thomas Tank Engine and outside in the garden a paddling pool and various toys.
My William spent most of the afternoon covered from head to toe in sun block happily pushing cars around the garden, whilst I concentrated with the other Dads on the serious business of football.

I purchased a bottle of Rustenburg John Merriman X 2007 a highly rated South African red to get in the spirit of the World Cup (this wine rarely seems to be available online but they had a couple of bottle in Waitrose Rickmansworth). When I mentioned my intention to drink this wine on Tom Cavanagh's wine forum I was told that I'd probably be better of aging it a little more before opening it. Taking this information on board and the fact my wife has just entered week 40 of her pregnancy I decided to tuck into a full bodied red at 14.5% alcohol at this point in time was probably not well advised in case I needed to make an emergency dash to the hospital. Instead I decided to take along another highly rated wine, a Dr Loosen Riesling and a wine originating from Germany our opponents on this day (very disloyal I know).

It is very unusually these days to have a low alcohol content wine. The full bodied wines championed by Robert Parker and other are often close on 16% - a fortified wine. The Dr Loosen Riesling is remarkably only 8.5%, meaning I could have a couple of small glasses over the course of the afternoon and still be safely under the limit should I be called upon to make the emergency dash. I've had this wine many times before. It has won awards and has had praise heaped upon it by those wine writers in the press. I know most of you will be put off by the low alcohol content but I urge you to give it a try. The wine is smooth, fruity and floral with a slightly effervescent quality -great with a curry incidentally.

Here are a couple of other wines of note I have tried since my last update:

Penfolds Bin 28 Shiraz - This wine for me typifies the best of Australian Shiraz, full on thick and rich, lusciously plumy and fruity with rounded tannins and a lengthy finish.

Mount Difficulty Pinot Noir - My son bought me this for Father's Day and a very choice it was especially so as he is only two years old! This is not a cheap bottle of wine £20.89 online more like £24 if you buy it in store, however good Pinot Noir is a notoriously difficult grape to cultivate and because of this it carries a high price tag. This wine has a fruity red cherry taste on the initial sip followed by a long smooth velvety finish with very subtle tannins and light acidity. A good Pinot Noir is probably my favourite wine and I would happily drink this all the time - unfortunately I can't afford this wine other than on the odd special occasion.

In between writing this update and posting it online my wife gave birth to another baby boy - Sam 9lb 12oz - a big one. I have a bottle of Joseph Perrier NV Champagne to celebrate and will be sure to include tasting notes in my next update.

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